Winter delights in Florence

In these anecdotes, I enjoyed taking a brisk walk in the Giardino delle Rose, basking in the cheery spirit of the Mercato del Porcellino, watching a sunset from Ponte Santa Trinita, and admiring the colors in the sky from Ponte alle Grazie.

Living in Florence ::  Winter delights in Florence

Giardino delle Rose — December 7, 2024
Alone in the Giardino delle Rose, I listened to everything happening around me. Birds chirping from the trees, water trickling in the fountain, and people chatting as they circulated beyond the garden’s perimeter.

Living in Florence, Italy :: Giardino delle Rose

The skies were a soothing gray and the sun’s diffused light incited a relaxing mood. Two pigeons cuddled up with one another on a horizontal cypress branch caught my eye.

The naked and clipped branches of the rosebushes signified the year was coming to a close. The rosebushes that were spared transmitted joy as their blossoms bobbed up and down, and their branches swayed.

I enjoyed deep inhalations of the chilly air as it both refreshed and invigorated me.

Traipsing around the roses, I paused multiple times to admire the previous night’s dew on the velvety petals. Their mellow perfume, when I detected it, delighted my senses.

Three couples passed through the gardens as I sat on the stone bench near the fountain.

Only when the clouds cleared and the sun shone did I stand up to capture the panorama. Its warm light accentuated the cupola and a section of the garden.

Before exiting the garden, I walked along the stone paths one more time.

When I reached Piazza Demidoff, crowds were heading toward Ponte alle Grazie. Gazing at the Ponte Vecchio, I reminisced about my time in the Rose Garden. I was grateful to have had those precious moments of solitude.

Mercato del Porcellino — December 14 2024
An hour after sunset, I ambled through the centro storico. After walking along the Arno, alongside the Camera di Commercio with its light show, I stopped on the Ponte Vecchio. The strings of bright golden lights left no shadows on the stone pavement. Standing across from Cellini, I admired the large chandeliers of lights strung overhead. Cold gusts of wind that grazed the surface of the river forced me to move to a less windy spot.

Living in Florence, Italy :: Mercato del Porcellino

I headed down Via Por Santa Maria, where the Duomo lurked above the tall palazzi. After crossing the road, where cars and taxis passed with caution through the crowds, I turned around. Florence’s red gigli (fleur-de-lys) were suspended in each of the archways, adding a cheery spirit to the Mercato del Porcellino.

The chilly air whisked me toward Piazza delle Repubblica to check out other holiday lights. I gazed at the Rinascente whose holiday lights illuminated the entire building. I walked to the Duomo and admired more of the city’s Christmas fanfare, which filled us with much glee.

Ponte Santa Trinita — December 16, 2024
As the sun was departing for the day, visitors did the same by marching toward Ponte alle Grazie, leaving behind them the Ponte Vecchio. I made my way to Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli and headed to the Ponte Santa Trinita. The sky was pale, and the air was brisk.

Living in Florence, Italy :: Ponte Santa Trinita

Instead of watching the sunset, I decided to visit Santo Spirito. The market was already closed in the piazza, although the terraces were full of people drinking and eating. 

I visited the church and was surprised by the presepe (nativity scene) di Mariano Pieroni at the back of the church. It took the artist 32 years to create wooden replicas of many of Florence’s palazzi and churches, like San Miniato al Monte, Palazzo Vecchio, and Santo Spirito. 

Before the sun had set, I returned to Ponte Santa Trinita. The horizon was blurred and even the Florence’s ruota panoramica (Ferris wheel) in the Parco delle Cascine was no longer visible.  

Passersby were walking to or from Via Tornabuoni, where the streets were lined with golden lights and a Christmas tree was added to the Piazza Santa Trinita for the holiday festivities.

I remained in my spot, watching the fog creep up the river and engulf the riverscape. The progression was swift. Twice I crossed the bridge to take a photo of the Ponte Vecchio. The first time, my photo was hazy. The second time, the photo depicted only the glow of the lampposts and Christmas lights on the bridge itself.

When I decided to leave, the Ponte alla Carraia was indiscernible. The lights across the bridge, just golden hazy balls of light.

Ponte alle Grazie — January 7, 2025
Between the hum of passing cars, I listened to the water flowing over the pescaia (weir). A soft melody that motivated me to slow down my breath. My body and mind relaxed as the colors infused into the billowy clouds became more vibrant under the cold blue sky.

Living in Florence, Italy :: Ponte alle Grazie

As the sun disappeared behind the tall palazzi above the Arno, crowds had gathered on the Ponte Vecchio. Their silhouettes appeared still under the three archways.

Behind me passed tourists: some heading to Piazzale Michelangiolo and others returning from there.

A brisk gust of wind blew over me, leaving deep ripples on the river’s surface. I continued across the bridge when my heart felt full of Florence’s love. As I strolled along the river, I glanced over my shoulder, admiring the colors fade.

Share your comments for this blog post on the Living in Florence's Facebook page. Grazie!

Back to Top