The highlights of my days last month were when I was navigating the streets of Florence, catching a sunset, and perusing the Giardino Bardini. Time spent communing with my beloved city are always magical.
Via dei Neri — March 12, 2025
After leaving my ortolano (greengrocer), I took the longer route home from Piazza di San Pier Maggiore. Instead of taking the side streets, I opted to go down Via Verdi. I wanted to take advantage of the break in the rain.
Cars and taxis sped by as I navigated the narrow sidewalk to Piazza Santa Croce. I stopped across from the fountain and gazed at the open space before the basilica.
A group of tourists gathered around their tour guide near the center of the piazza. I wondered if she was going to mention that the statue of Dante was moved from where they stood to its current location above the steps leading to the church’s entrance.
I continued toward Ponte alle Grazie and turned up Via dei Neri. My eyes filled up on the Torre d’Arnolfo hovering over the palazzi. I fumbled in my pocket for my iPhone. With so few people walking along the shop-lined road, I had to capture the moment. The sunshine emanated through the clouds and set them aglow.
While switching my bag of fruits and vegetables to my other shoulder, a bike zoomed by, almost grazing me. I continued my walk home, looking up at the tower until it disappeared behind the palazzi.
Lungarno Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici — March 15, 2025
The skies cleared by morning, but soon after, dark clouds appeared, sprinkling (and sometimes pouring) water onto Florence. The level of the river’s water subsided within a few hours. Initially, it was higher than I had seen it in a while. I stayed put, looking out my windows to peek at the pedestrians walking under colorful umbrellas.
As the sun was setting, I headed outside. The sound of the Arno was invigorating. Most of the year, the water staggers through the city, sometimes appearing stagnant at some points. But not now.
I headed down the river toward a dimly lit Ponte Vecchio. The glow of the shop lights grazed the faces of the passersby.
Many stood along the brick wall above the water, taking photos and reveling in the phenomenal rush of water. As the Arno seemed almost epic.
I continued to follow the water, past Ponte Santa Trinita and Ponte alla Carraia. Many people had gathered on Ponte Vespucci, but I stopped above the Pescaia di Santa Rosa.
The roar of the water was breathtaking. I leaned on the wall to take a video of it. The sound was deafening, drowning out the sound of rain pitter pattering on my umbrella.
On my walk back home, I stayed close to the barrier and paused often to admire the brownish water rushing by with broken tree branches bobbing on top.
Before passing through the Piazzale degli Uffizi, I took in the view of the Ponte Vecchio and the Corridoio Vasariano. After the sun had set, the skies appeared lighter, the wet stones in the road shimmered, and the streetlamps softened the scenery with its golden light.
Ponte Santa Trinita — March 17, 2025
The chilly air blew by in spurts, tossing my hair about as I stood on Ponte Santa Trinita. After a few slow breaths, my entire body relaxed. With the Ponte Vecchio behind me, I marveled at the splashes of color permeating the thin clouds above San Frediano in Cestello.
The Arno’s khaki water, carrying a few stray branches, swirled around as it made its way through Florence.
An electric guitarist, with his back to the sunset, performed a solo jam session. The Arno was so mesmerizing that I didn’t even hear him at first. Many passersby leaned against the bridge’s wall, enjoying his impromptu concert, while others sat on the cement divider in front of him.
As the skies were turning gray, the street lamps blinked on. It appeared as if someone had flicked a switch. Florence’s ruota panoramica (Ferris wheel) grabbed my attention with its swirls of bright colors flashing in the distance.
As the sun departed for the day, the air became colder than expected. I tied my jacket’s belt a little tighter to not let any air pass through, hoping to wait for the blue hour. However, once the skies darkened, I headed home.
Under a clear sky, I rushed across Ponte alle Grazie. The Giardino Bardini, along with other gardens and museums, was closed for a couple of days because of the heavy rains. With the sun shining overhead, I was eager to visit the gardens to see how nature was progressing.
Giardino Bardini — March 23, 2025
While perusing the garden, spring appeared to be a distant dream. It wasn’t until I glimpsed a handful of red tulips alongside the scalinata barocca (baroque staircase) that my hope was restored.
While the trees in the fruit orchard were preparing for spring, the roses were sprouting tiny green and rust-colored leaves from the branches. Creating a haven to welcome the tiny rosebuds. The wisteria on the pergola was naked, as if it were stuck in the dead of winter. No sign of green to be found.
The coffeehouse was already open, welcoming a few people to sit at the tables under the sun.
Before turning toward the camellia bushes, bursting with magenta, pink, and white flowers, one couple stood in the middle of the terrace. The young man knelt, taking the young woman’s hand. I didn’t want to stare at them during their special moment, so I continued along the path. As I passed alongside a towering Judas tree with its magenta buds, I heard a joyous shriek. I walked back toward the terrace, where the couple were hugging. She must have said yes.
I snapped a few photos of the Duomo framed by the gate and an old cypress tree frame. The patch of bright green grass hinted of warmer weather to arrive. It wasn’t until I returned home that I spotted the couple in the lower left corner of my photo.
I made my rounds past the Canale del Drago (Dragon Canal) where two koi fish live.
Later, when I walked across the terrace, a professional photographer was snapping photos of the couple. I smiled and nodded at them. My heart was full of beauty and hope. Not only for the spring, but for the year ahead.
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